It’s all too easy to end up with duplicate photos and videos in your Photos library. The most common way is to use the Duplicate command, but we’ve seen duplicates appear due to accidentally repeated actions in other apps, repeated screenshots, multiple imports that include the same image (much as Photos tries to prevent this now), and buggy behavior in iCloud Photos.

Identifying duplicate photos and videos is difficult to do manually. Although the human eye is good at noticing when things aren’t the same, it’s much harder to determine if two images are identical. And which of two identical images you want to keep can require that you compare file formats, sizes, and other metadata, which is fussy, tedious work.

Apple has come to the rescue with a new duplicate identification and merging capability in Photos in iOS 16, iPadOS 16, and macOS 13 Ventura. It may not be perfect, but it’s a good start and extremely easy to use.

To get started on the iPhone, tap Albums in the toolbar, scroll down to the Utilities section, and tap Duplicates (left). On the iPad, Duplicates appears in the sidebar under Utilities (middle), and on the Mac, it’s in the sidebar under the top-level Photos section (right).

Even if you use iCloud Photos, which syncs your photos and videos between all your devices, you may not see the same number of duplicates on each device. We’re not sure why this is the case—perhaps Apple’s code isn’t identical between platforms—but it may be necessary to run through the merging process on multiple devices to catch everything. Plus, it seems as though Photos identifies new duplicates slowly in the background, so the Duplicates album may not include new duplicates right away.

Regardless, once you’re in the Duplicates album, you’ll see a scrolling list of all duplicate photos and videos. Photos automatically displays the file size on each item so you can see that some are smaller than others. Tap the ••• button at the top right on the iPhone or iPad, or use the Filter By menu on the Mac to show all items, just photos, or just videos. You can also switch between a square grid and one that preserves the aspect ratio of the images—the control is in the ••• menu on the iPhone, the Aspect/Square button on the iPad, and the thumbnail toggle button next to the size slider on the Mac.

Note that Photos explains at the bottom of the screen what counts as a duplicate. Exact duplicates do, of course, but Photos also matches images that differ in size or other metadata. It may also identify images that are very nearly the same.

You can tap or click each image in a set to view it at full size, and if you were a glutton for punishment, you could delete one of the images in the set manually with the trash button. But there’s no reason to do that because Photos provides a Merge button (or link, on the Mac) next to each set. Tap or click that, and Photos will keep one version that combines the highest quality and relevant metadata, moving the rest to Recently Deleted. Note that Photos tells you when duplicates are exact (left) or very similar (right).

When you have lots of duplicates, using the Merge button for each set will be time-consuming. Instead, tap the Select button at the top on the iPhone and iPad. Then you can tap to select individual photos (which you could then trash manually; left), tap the Select button next to duplicates to select them (right), or tap the Select All button to select everything. Once you select one or more duplicate sets, a Merge link appears at the bottom. Tap that to merge the selected duplicates.

If you don’t want to verify each of the duplicates Photos has found, the process becomes as simple as this:

1. Open the Duplicates album.
2. Tap Select.
3. Tap Select All.
4. Tap Merge (###).

Boom, you’re done, regardless of how many hundreds or thousands of duplicates you had.

In our testing, Photos does a pretty good job, but for another approach, check out PowerPhotos, which uses a different visual comparison engine and may identify more images that are sufficiently similar to qualify as duplicates in your mind. It costs $29.95, but you can use its free trial to see if it will help your duplicate problem.

(Featured image by Adam Engst)

If you find yourself at a family gathering with bored children over the holidays, allow us to recommend an activity that can keep kids engaged. Figure out something the kids can do that involves motion—knocking down a tower of blocks, rolling a ball or toy car down stairs, even just making silly faces—and record them using the Slo-Mo option in the Camera app. Swipe left (iPhone) or down (iPad) on the viewfinder or labels to move from Photo mode to Slo-Mo mode, and then tap the red record button to start filming. Our test kids had fun building tall towers to knock over while filming, giggled madly while watching the videos, and went on to brainstorm other activities to film in slow motion.

(Featured image by iStock.com/Elena Vafina)

Happy New Year! For many of us, starting a new year means reflecting on fresh habits we’d like to adopt. Although we certainly support any resolutions you may have made to get enough sleep, eat better, reduce social media usage, and exercise more, could we suggest a few that will improve your digital security and reduce the chances that bad things will happen to you online?

Keep Your Devices Updated

One important thing you can do to protect your security is to install new operating system updates and security updates soon after Apple releases them. Although the details seldom make the news because they’re both highly specific and highly technical, you can get a sense of how important security updates are by the fact that a typical update addresses 20–40 vulnerabilities that Apple or outside researchers have identified. Some are even zero-day vulnerabilities that are already being exploited in the wild.

It’s usually a good idea to wait a week or so after an update appears before installing it, on the off chance that it has undesirable side effects. Although such problems are uncommon, when they do happen, Apple pulls the update quickly, fixes it, and releases it again, usually within a few days.

Use a Password Manager

We’ll keep banging the password manager drum until the replacement for passwords, passkeys, have become ubiquitous, and that will take years. Until then, if you’re still typing passwords in by hand or copying and pasting from a list you keep in a file, please switch to a password manager like Apple’s built-in password manager and iCloud Keychain. 1Password or LastPass are also good options. A password manager offers five huge benefits:

• It generates strong passwords for you. Mypassword1 can be hacked in seconds.
• It stores your passwords securely. An Excel file on your Desktop is a recipe for disaster.
• It enters passwords for you. Wouldn’t that be easier than typing them in manually?
• It audits existing accounts. How many of your accounts use the same password?
• It lets you access passwords on all your devices. Finally, easy logins on your iPhone!

A bonus benefit for families is password sharing. It allows, for example, a married couple to share essential passwords or parents and teens to share specific passwords.

In short, using a password manager is faster, easier, more secure, and just all-around better. If you need help getting started, get in touch.

Beware of Phishing Email

Individuals and businesses alike frequently suffer from security lapses caused by phishing, forged email that fools someone into revealing login credentials, credit card numbers, or other sensitive information. Although spam filters catch many phishing attempts, you must always be on your guard. Here’s what to watch for:

• Any email that tries to get you to reveal information, follow a link, or sign a document
• Messages from people you don’t know, asking you to take an unusual action
• Direct email from a large company for whom you’re an anonymous customer
• Forged email from a trusted source asking for sensitive information
• All messages that contain numerous spelling and grammar mistakes

When in doubt, don’t follow the link or reply to the email. Instead, contact the sender another way to see if the message is legit.

Avoid Sketchy Websites

We won’t belabor this one, but suffice it to say that you’re much more likely to pick up malware from sites on the fringes of the Web or that cater to the vices of society. The more you can avoid sites that provide pirated software, “adult” content, gambling opportunities, or sales of illicit substances, the safer you’ll be. That’s not to say that reputable sites haven’t been hacked and used to distribute malware, but it’s far less common.

If you are concerned after spending time in the darker corners of the Web, download a free copy of Malwarebytes or VirusBarrier Scanner and scan for malware manually.

Never Respond to Unsolicited Calls or Texts

Although phishing happens mostly via email, scammers have also taken to using texts and phone calls. Thanks to weaknesses in the telephone system, such texts and calls can appear to come from well-known companies, including Apple and Amazon. Even worse, with so much online ordering, fake text messages pretending to help you track packages are becoming more common.

For texts, avoid following links unless you recognize the sender and it makes sense that you’d be receiving such a link. (For instance, Apple can text delivery details related to your orders.) Regardless, never enter login information at a site you’ve reached by following a link because there’s no way to know if it’s real. Instead, if you want to learn more, navigate the company’s site manually by entering its URL, then log in.

For phone calls from companies, unless you’re expecting a call back from a support ticket you opened, don’t answer. Let the call go to voicemail, and if you feel it’s important to respond, look up the company’s phone number elsewhere and talk with someone at that number rather than the one provided by the voicemail.

Let’s raise a glass to staying safe online in 2023!

(Featured image by iStock.com/Bet_Noire)

Next time you’re flying to visit your Apple-using family or friends, send them your flight number using Messages when you leave. Then they can easily track your flight in the air and see when you’re arriving. Just text them the flight number prefixed with the airline’s abbreviation, like AA for American Airlines, AC for Air Canada, BA for British Air, DL for Delta, or UA for United Airlines. If Messages recognizes the flight number, it will underline it to indicate that tapping or clicking will bring up the current flight information. This feature also helps you extract more information from a texted flight status update that an airline sends to you. If you know a flight number but don’t have it in Messages, you can get the same information on the Mac using Spotlight (press Command-Space). On an iPhone or iPad, use the  Search feature (pull down on the Home screen).

(Featured image by iStock.com/SamAntonioPhotography)

At long last, Apple has plugged one of the most inexplicable holes in its app library—the lack of a Weather app for the iPad and Mac. In iPadOS 16 and macOS 13 Ventura, you’ll now find a large-screen version of the iPhone’s iOS 16 Weather app. Locations you enter on one device automatically sync to your other devices, and the feature set is identical across the different platforms. That’s especially welcome now that Apple has integrated all the features of the acquired Dark Sky service, including hyperlocal notifications of incoming weather, next-hour and 12-hour animated forecast maps (tap the map), and time-based graphs of temperature, UV index, wind, precipitation, “feels like” temperature, humidity, visibility, and pressure. Plus, you’ll find cards for air quality and sunrise/sunset times. You no longer need to look elsewhere on the iPad and Mac for a basic weather app!

(Featured image by iStock.com/DNHanlon)

Perhaps the most surprising change in the iPhone 14 line, at least in the United States, was the shift from using removable SIM cards to eSIM.

SIM cards—SIM stands for Subscriber Identity Module—have been a fixture in the mobile phone world for many years because they provide the unique identification necessary to connect a subscriber and a plan with a phone. Because SIM cards are removable, you can use them to transfer an existing plan to a new phone, switch carriers, or enable temporary service while traveling—all by inserting the appropriate SIM card.

But SIM cards are small, fussy, and require physical interaction, so the industry came up with eSIM, or embedded SIM, where a programmable SIM is integrated into the circuitry of the phone. With eSIM, you can also activate a plan, transfer a plan to a new phone, or change carriers, typically without interacting with customer service. You also don’t have to acquire a physical SIM, figure out how to open your phone’s SIM tray, or insert the tiny SIM card in the correct orientation without dropping or damaging it. Plus, without a SIM slot and tray, iPhones have one less spot where water could get in and one less moving part that could break, and Apple doesn’t have to provide a SIM tool that you’ll likely lose (and replace with a paperclip).

Apple’s eSIM Transition

eSIM support is widespread among US carriers but less so internationally, which is why models of the iPhone 14 sold outside the US retain the SIM tray. The main place where lack of eSIM support is likely to be an issue—at least for the near future—is international travel. Historically, it was easy to purchase a pre-paid SIM card for a local carrier in the airport upon arriving, but that will no longer work for a US iPhone 14. The iPhone is sufficiently popular that international carriers are adding eSIM support, but it’s still possible to travel to a country where you can’t get local service with an iPhone 14 due to the lack of a SIM tray. Apple maintains a list of international carriers that support eSIM in various ways, including with pre-paid plans for travelers, and offers advice on how to use eSIM when traveling. (eSIM isn’t available at all in mainland China, but Apple’s list includes worldwide service providers that sell pre-paid data plans you can use when traveling in China and other countries without eSIM support.)

Apple has been moving toward eSIM for several years, starting with the iPhone XS, iPhone XS Max, and iPhone XR in 2018. Those iPhones—and every model up to the iPhone 14—had both a SIM tray and eSIM, which enabled the use of two separate cellular plans, each with its own phone number. With the iPhone 13, Apple enabled Dual SIM support with eSIM alone, and some carriers started giving customers the option to activate their primary service with eSIM, leaving the SIM tray or the second eSIM available for a second plan. Apple says you can store and switch among up to eight or more eSIMs, two of which can be active at any time, but it’s unclear how that works—an update to iOS might be necessary.

Cellular-capable iPads have had eSIM support since the seventh-generation iPad, fifth-generation iPad mini, third-generation iPad Air, first-generation 11-inch iPad Pro, and third-generation 12.9-inch iPad Pro.

How to Activate an eSIM

Precisely how you activate an account with eSIM varies by carrier and your situation, but Apple describes three basic options:

• eSIM Carrier Activation: Some carriers can assign a new eSIM to your iPhone, making it easy to switch to a new iPhone or enable an eSIM-based plan after setup. eSIM Carrier Activation involves following a few simple onscreen instructions where you basically acknowledge that activation is happening. Make sure you can place a phone call afterward, and if you’re switching from a SIM card, remove it and restart your iPhone.
• eSIM Quick Transfer: If you’re transferring a SIM or eSIM from an old iPhone to a new one and you have both at hand, you may be able to use eSIM Quick Transfer. It will provide instructions during setup, or you can initiate it after setup with Settings > Cellular > Add Cellular Plan and either selecting a plan from a list or tapping Transfer From Another Device. You can also convert a physical SIM to an eSIM on the same phone if your carrier supports eSIM Quick Transfer; check to see if Settings > Cellular has a Convert to eSIM option. If so, tap it and follow the instructions.
  
• Scan a QR code or use a carrier app: Carriers that don’t support eSIM Carrier Activation or eSIM Quick Transfer initiate setup by providing either a QR code you can scan—during setup or afterward—or a custom app. Either way, follow the iPhone’s instructions to complete the setup.

Although we’ve become accustomed to swapping SIM cards in and out of our iPhones such that eSIM feels new and confusing, it should be a better overall solution that’s easier to set up, less error-prone, and more secure. There may be some short-term annoyance for US iPhone 14 owners who travel internationally, but we anticipate that will dissipate over time as international carriers start supporting eSIM.

(Featured image by iStock.com/fz750)

It’s common for one person in a family to handle booking airline tickets and thus to be in charge of checking in for the flight online and downloading boarding passes. If that’s you, what’s the best way to send each iPhone-wielding person in your family their own boarding pass? Rather than tussle with sharing the check-in confirmation email, add all the family boarding passes to Wallet on your iPhone. Then, for each person’s boarding pass, tap the ••• button ➊, tap Pass Details ➋, tap the share icon in the upper-right corner ➌, and share the pass via AirDrop or any other standard method. When the person receives it, they’ll be prompted to add the pass to their Wallet app.

(Featured image by iStock.com/IPGGutenbergUKLtd)

Email may not be as sexy a way to communicate as modern-day darlings like Messages, Slack, or Microsoft Teams, but it remains the workhorse of business and personal communications. While Apple’s Mail is a mature app that has long provided the necessary basics, there has been room for improvement. In iOS 16, iPadOS 16, and macOS 13 Ventura, Apple has given us some welcome enhancements, many of which have existed in other email systems for some time.

These features are extremely similar across all of Apple’s platforms, but they may differ in small ways. Don’t worry if you haven’t updated all your devices yet—you can still take advantage of these features on your iPhone or iPad even if you’re cautiously (and appropriately, for now) sticking to macOS 12 Monterey on your Mac.

Undo Send

If you’re like us, it’s all too common to send an email and then immediately remember you wanted to add something or Cc someone. Mail now gives you a grace period during which you can unsend a message—10 seconds by default, but configurable to 20 or 30 seconds on the iPhone or iPad in Settings > Mail > Undo Send Delay, or on the Mac in Mail > Settings > Composing.

To unsend a message, tap Undo Send at the bottom of the screen (look in the sidebar on the Mac and iPad). On the Mac, it’s easier to press Command-Z immediately to undo the action. Either way, the message opens for editing again so you can make the desired changes and resend.

Send Later

It’s not always appropriate to send email messages as soon as you finish writing them. Some organizations have policies against sending email significantly outside of business hours to discourage unhealthy work schedules, and you may want to compose a message—a last-minute reminder for event participants, say—well in advance and then schedule it to arrive at an appropriate time. Mail now makes that possible.

To schedule a message for sending later, touch and hold the Send button on the iPhone or iPad, or click the menu next to the Send button on the Mac. It suggests an appropriate time later in the day or the next day, or you can use Send Later to set a specific date and time. Note that the device on which you’re scheduling the message must be online for the message to be sent, but the scheduled send works fine if the device is asleep.

Scheduled messages live in a Send Later mailbox until they’re sent, so if you need to reschedule them, open the message and tap the Edit button in the scheduling banner at the top.

Get Reminders

Some people like to “snooze” email messages so they reappear at the top of the inbox at a later time that may be better. Mail can do this now with its built-in reminder feature, which also temporarily shows the message in a Remind Me mailbox and pops up a notification when the specified time arrives.

To set a reminder, swipe right on it (use two fingers on the Mac) and tap or click Remind Me to choose a reminder schedule of 1 hour, tonight, or tomorrow. You can also specify a precise time and date. If you can’t swipe on a Mac, you can instead Control-click the message and choose a reminder schedule; on an iPhone or iPad, you can also tap the Reply button and then Remind Me.

Note that this feature only repositions the message in the inbox, so if you’ve read it, for instance, but you have your inbox filtered to show only unread messages, you won’t see the moved message. It does get a little Remind Me tag in the message list.

Follow-ups

It’s bad enough when you ask someone a question in email, don’t get a response, and have to send a reminder. Worse is when you lose track of the question entirely until it becomes a problem. A new feature in Mail could help. When the app detects that you’ve asked a question, it starts a timer, and if you don’t get a response within 3 days, Mail brings your message back to the top of your inbox with a reminder to follow up. Tap that reminder to send another message to the original recipient.

You don’t have to do anything for the follow-up feature to work, other than compose messages that the feature determines are asking questions. However, there’s no guarantee it will work correctly on every appropriate message, and the feature has no way of knowing if your recipient replied in a completely new conversation or outside of email. If you find it annoying, you can turn it off on the Mac. Go to Mail > Settings > General and deselect “Enable message follow up suggestions.”

Focus Filters

Finally, Mail supports the new Focus Filters, which lets you hide content in specified apps when a certain Focus is active. For instance, if you have a Focus for Personal and another for Work, you might want to specify that your work email account appears only when the Work Focus is active and your personal email account appears only when the Personal Focus is active. It’s logically sensible—you don’t get distracted with personal email at work or work email at home—but it likely isn’t worth the effort unless you have trouble exercising self-control.

To add a Mail account to a Focus Filter, open Focus in Settings or System Settings, select a Focus, tap Add Filter, select Mail, and choose the desired account. After that, when you open Mail, you’ll see only messages from that account, with a Focus Filter banner explaining why and letting you turn it off temporarily.

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/Motortion)

The iPhone and iPad have long allowed you to share Wi-Fi passwords with other nearby devices and people as long as they were in your Contacts list. But you couldn’t see those passwords, which is handy for sharing with non-Apple users and devices. In iOS 16 and iPadOS 16, you can now view and copy the stored Wi-Fi password for either the current network or any remembered network. In Settings > Wi-Fi, next to a network’s name (tap Edit at the top right to view stored networks), tap the blue information icon, tap Password, and authenticate to reveal the password. If desired, tap Copy to copy to the clipboard for pasting in another app, such as Mail or Messages.

(Featured image by iStock.com/denizbayram)

Spam remains one of the scourges of the Internet, although spam filters do a pretty good job of keeping most of it out of email inboxes. However, those spam filters can cause deliverability problems for organizations that send email for marketing or customer outreach. One way that happens is if the IP address—the unique numeric address of every computer on the Internet—of the server that sends your organization’s email lands on a blocklist.

Understanding Blocklists

Blocklist services are conceptually simple. They maintain lists of IP addresses that have been identified as sending spam. Receiving email servers subscribe to those blocklists, and for every connection that’s made, the server checks the blocklist in real-time to see if the incoming message originates from a blocked IP address. If it does, the receiving server rejects the connection, preventing the message from being delivered.

How do sending email servers end up on blocklists? There are several basic ways:

• Traps: If you’ve purchased or scraped lists of email addresses (don’t do that!), you may have ended up with dormant addresses or addresses that the blocklists surreptitiously seeded to spammers. If those addresses receive email from you, the blocklist knows you’re not sending just to people who have opted into your mailings. Similarly, if there are many typos in the email addresses on your list, that can raise a flag.
• Triggers: Certain words and links in your message can increase the likelihood that a spam filter will catch your message, and some spam filters report back to blocklists. If a draft message sounds spammy or overly promotional when you read it to yourself, that’s a hint that it might trigger a spam filter.
• Reports: If too many people mark your messages as spam, that can put you on a blocklist. Sadly, some people use the Junk button instead of unsubscribing from mailings they’ve subscribed to.
• Takeover: Although this problem is less common now than it was when more organizations ran their own mail servers, if a hacker compromises your server or account and uses it to send actual spam, that’s almost guaranteed to land you on one or more blocklists.

To avoid ending up on a blocklist, make sure you’re being fastidious about your mailing list. Only add people to it if they have legitimately signed up, make it easy for them to remove themselves with an Unsubscribe link at the end of every message, delete bouncing addresses right away, and avoid spammy language in your messages. It’s not hard—just be a good Internet citizen. And, of course, if you control your own mail server, pay special attention to its security to keep hackers out.

Is Your Organization Already on a Blocklist?

Let’s say your IP address has ended up on a blocklist even though you’ve been good. How would you know? You might hear that people who should have received your mailings didn’t or that your messages were marked as spam. Or you might see your deliverability numbers falling in your sending tool. Neither of those is reliable, though, so we recommend you use MXToolbox’s Blacklist Check, where you can type in your hostname or IP address to see if it’s on any of over 100 blocklists.

You can use MXToolbox for quick checks against 100+ blocklists whenever you want, but if you sign up for a free account, you can set up a monitor that checks your email server’s hostname or IP address against 30 common blocklists every week and emails you the results. (MXToolbox offers lots of other email and Internet-related tests that can help you monitor and troubleshoot your Internet presence.)

Getting off a Blocklist

Once your IP address is on a blocklist, your goal is to remove it as quickly as possible. Many blocklists automatically remove entries after a certain amount of time, but clicking the Detail button in the MXToolbox blocklist listing will tell you more about the blocklist and potentially how to request a manual delisting.

The precise steps will vary by blocklist, but the most important thing is that you resolve whatever issue caused your server to be added in the first place. Once that’s done, you’ll probably need to provide the IP address of the server and an explanation of what happened, either in a Web form or in an email to the blocklist admins.

We won’t lie—ending up on a blocklist can be stressful, particularly if your organization relies on sending customer-focused email. But if you keep your list clean and avoid sending spam-like messages, the occasional blocklist listing should be only a temporary blip in your operations.

(Featured image by iStock.com/ipuwadol)