The latest scam to watch out for is fake websites that try to get you to open Script Editor directly from your browser with a pre-filled AppleScript. Don’t do this! Security researchers at Jamf Threat Labs documented an attack where a convincing Apple-themed page claiming to help “reclaim disk space” prompted users to allow Script Editor to open, then used the applescript:// URL scheme to open a seemingly legitimate script that—if the user ran it—would download and install the Atomic Stealer malware. In macOS 26.4, a new warning in Script Editor flags the script as from an unidentified developer, which should alert more users to the danger. (Yet another reason to install macOS updates!) The rule is simple: never run an AppleScript unless you wrote it yourself or acquired the code from a source you trust. If a website asks to open Script Editor—or any other app—click Cancel, and if you ever see this warning, close the script immediately. No legitimate webpage needs to run scripts on your Mac.

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/Prostock-Studio)

Safari’s compact tab bar option, which saves vertical space by placing the address bar in the current tab, went missing in the initial releases of macOS 26 Tahoe and iPadOS 26. Only Apple knows why this helpful option disappeared (Liquid Glass?), but as of macOS 26.4 and iPadOS 26.4, it’s back! On the Mac, select it in Safari > Settings > Tabs; on the iPad, look in Settings > Apps > Safari.

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/czekma13)

We always recommend buying from reputable manufacturers rather than no-name brands, especially for products with lithium-ion batteries, such as power banks, Bluetooth speakers, flashlights, power tools, e-bikes, and more. In a 2025 study, industrial scanning company Lumafield CT-scanned over 1,000 lithium-ion battery cells from ten different brands, including reputable manufacturers like Samsung and Panasonic, as well as low-cost and outright counterfeit brands sold through retailers like Temu. The results were troubling: nearly 8% of the low-cost and counterfeit batteries had dangerous manufacturing defects that significantly increase the risk of internal short-circuiting and battery overheating, potentially leading to fires. None of the name-brand batteries showed these defects. The few dollars you might save on a no-name battery aren’t worth the risk.

(Featured image by iStock.com/Pradit_Ph)

If you can work comfortably with the Mac’s four Finder views, you’ll enjoy an easier experience when you try to get to your folders and files. Each view has its pros and cons, so using the best view for the job at hand will make you more productive. Here’s a look at the Icon, List, Column, and Gallery views, plus tips on quickly switching views and setting up default views.

You switch between views in the active window by choosing View > as Icons, as List, as Columns, or as Gallery. Alternatively, click one of the view icons in a window’s toolbar. It’s worth memorizing the keyboard shortcuts for List (Command-2) and Column (Command-3) views so you can switch to them quickly if a particular window isn’t in your preferred view.

Icon View

Viewing files and folders as thumbnails is the most visual approach and works best for people who think spatially—this icon is below that other one. Such people often prefer to arrange icons manually to create memorable groupings, but the Finder can also automatically arrange them in a grid, sorted by different criteria. Icon view works well for:

• The Desktop: The desktop can only display its contents in Icon view, though you can open the Desktop folder in a window and use any view in that window.
• Folders with few items: When a window shows only a handful of items, icons make selection easy. That’s why most software distribution disk images use Icon view to display the app and an icon in the Applications folder.
• Photos or other images: Because icons for images can show a preview of the image (rather than just the document type thumbnail), Icon view with a relatively large icon size provides a useful visual preview.

To customize Icon view, choose View > Show View Options. You can adjust icon size, grid spacing, text size, label position, and background color—or even a background photo. Group By organizes icons into categories, while Sort By keeps them organized by name, date, or other metadata. For folders containing images, increasing the icon size creates a more useful visual preview.

The main limitation of Icon view is that it shows minimal metadata—just the filename and, optionally, item info such as image dimensions. It also becomes unwieldy with more than a few files, since scrolling through numerous icons is inefficient.

List View

When a folder contains more than a few items, List view is usually the most efficient way to work with it. It displays files in rows with sortable columns showing metadata such as date modified, size, kind, and more. List view is ideal for users who think about files in terms of attributes—when something was created, how large it is, or what type it is—rather than visual appearance. Use it for:

• Folders containing many items: Once a folder has more items than fit without scrolling, List view makes it easier to view and select items.
• Sorting folders by date or size: Whenever you want to see the most recent files at the top, or quickly identify which consume the most disk space, you can click the Date Modified or Size column header to sort by that criterion.
• Work with nested folders: Disclosure triangles let you view the contents of multiple nested folders without opening a new window, making it easier to see and move items between them.

Customize the visible columns by choosing View > Show View Options or by Control-clicking any column header. You can add columns for tags, version, comments, and other metadata. Drag column headers to rearrange their order, and drag the dividers between headers to adjust column widths. Sort columns by clicking a column header; click it again to reverse the sort.

Column View

Column view shows your folder hierarchy as a series of columns, with each column representing one level of the hierarchy. Selecting a folder reveals its contents in the next column to the right, while selecting a file displays a preview and metadata in the rightmost column. Column view is popular with power users who frequently navigate between folders and appreciate seeing the path to the current location. It’s perfect for:

• Navigating deep folder structures: Move through nested folders quickly without opening multiple windows.
• Understanding file locations: The column layout shows exactly where a file sits in your folder hierarchy.
• Quick previews: Select any file to see a preview without opening it or using Quick Look.
• Drag-and-drop organization: Easily drag files between folders visible in different columns.

One useful option in View > Show View Options is “Resize columns to fit filenames,” added in macOS 26.1, which automatically adjusts column widths to accommodate the longest visible filename. Alternatively, you can manually resize all columns at once by Option-double-clicking any column divider. You can also set a default column width and choose whether to show icons and the preview column.

Gallery View

Gallery view dedicates most of the window to a large preview of the selected file, with a row of thumbnails along the bottom and a metadata sidebar on the right. Those who work primarily with images find it useful. It’s designed for:

• Reviewing photos and videos: The large preview makes it easy to evaluate images without opening them.
• Previewing documents: PDFs, presentations, and other documents display their first page, which can help with identifying similarly named files.
• Quick Actions: The sidebar includes Quick Action buttons for common tasks such as rotating images, using markup tools, creating PDFs, and trimming video.
• Checking metadata: The sidebar can show detailed information, including EXIF data for photos.

Gallery view becomes less useful for folders containing mostly text documents or applications, where the large preview adds little value. Honestly, we seldom use it.

Setting Default Views

The Finder remembers your view preferences for each folder individually, so once set, they should stick. However, if you’re in Column or List view and open a folder set to appear in Gallery view by selecting it or clicking its disclosure triangle, you’ll stay in the previous view. To open the folder in its assigned view, double-click its icon.

When you create a new Finder window with File > New Finder Window, it opens the folder specified in Finder > Settings > General. Set that folder to your preferred view so new windows open as you like.

To ensure a specific folder always opens in a particular view, select it, choose View > Show View Options, and select the Always Open In checkbox. To have its subfolders open in that view too, also select Browse In, if available.

You can also apply view settings to other folders. In View Options, configure the settings exactly as you want—icon size, text size, visible columns, and so on—then click Use as Defaults. This makes those settings the default for any folder displayed in that same view type (Icon, List, or Gallery) that doesn’t have its own custom settings. You must set defaults separately for each view type; Column view lacks this option entirely. To revert to system defaults, hold the Option key and the button changes to Restore Defaults.

There’s no need to commit to one view. Switch freely based on what you’re doing—List view for finding recent files or cleaning up, Column view for navigating a folder hierarchy, or Gallery or Icon view for reviewing images. The best view is whichever helps you accomplish your current task most efficiently.

(Featured image generated by Adam Engst with ChatGPT)

The Camera Control on iPhone 16 and later models lets you open the Camera app and take a photo with the press of a button. But it’s more than just a simple button—it features a touch-sensitive surface that lets you adjust a variety of settings without having to tap the screen.

To access the controls, you either lightly press the Camera Control or swipe along it. From there, lightly double-press to enter a setting, swipe to adjust it, and lightly double-press again to go back. A full press takes a photo no matter where you are in the controls.

While the Camera Control’s default configuration provides access to everything it can do, that can be overwhelming for people who want to take quick snapshots without inadvertently changing settings like exposure and depth. We recommend taking a spin through the options in Settings > Camera > Camera Control to configure it for your needs. Here’s what each option does and when you might want to change it.

Launch Camera

Although most people use Apple’s Camera app, you can configure the Camera Control to open other camera apps as well. (Plus, if you want to disable the Camera Control entirely, select None.) Apps must be specifically designed to work with the Camera Control, so not all third-party camera apps will appear in this list.

Click to Open Camera

By default, a single click on the Camera Control opens the Camera app. If you often find yourself accidentally opening the camera—perhaps when pulling it from a pocket—you can switch to Double Click, which requires two presses to launch the app.

Require Screen On

The Require Screen On switch provides another way to reduce inadvertent camera activations. When selected, pressing the Camera Control opens the Camera app only if the screen is already on. If it’s not, the first press of the Camera Control turns on the screen and a second press opens the Camera app. Leave this switch off if you want one-click access to the camera even when the iPhone’s screen is off—ideal for the fastest shots.

Customize Controls

Along with launching the Camera app and taking a photo, the Camera Control lets you access and adjust numerous camera-related settings using its touch-sensitive surface. If you often find yourself accidentally enmeshed in camera settings when you just want to take a photo, consider turning off Camera Adjustments entirely.

But for those who like tweaking settings, the Camera Control provides a shortcut that doesn’t require tapping the screen. In the Customize screen, you choose which settings appear when you lightly press the Camera Control while using the camera.

Above the list of controls, you’ll find a gesture setting that determines how you access them—via a light press, a long swipe, or both. You can choose one or both, but turning both off blocks access to the controls entirely.

The available controls include:

• Exposure: Brightens or darkens the overall scene
• Depth: Adjusts background blur intensity
• Zoom: Switches between zoom levels
• Cameras: Switches between the front camera and the rear cameras
• Styles: Changes the active Photographic Style
• Tone: Adjusts the mood by lightening or deepening tones

You can turn each setting on or off and drag them into your preferred order. If you rarely use Tone but frequently take selfies, for instance, you might turn off Tone and move Cameras to the top of the list. Fewer options mean faster access to the ones you actually use.

Don’t feel shy about using only one or two controls, or about turning off the adjustments completely. There’s nothing worse than missing a great photo because you’ve inadvertently gotten lost in the controls.

One final note: enabling the Clean Preview switch hides the Camera app’s on-screen buttons and overlays—like the shutter button, zoom controls, and mode switcher—while you’re making adjustments using the Camera Control, giving you an unobstructed view of the scene.

Lock Focus and Exposure

When enabled, this option lets you lock both focus and exposure. Lightly press and hold the Camera Control, and then keep your finger on it to maintain those focus and exposure settings as you reframe the shot. (You’ll see AE/AF LOCK at the top of the viewfinder.) This option can be useful when shooting a subject against a bright background or in changing light conditions—the camera won’t readjust as you reframe. Release your finger to unlock. If you’ve never needed this feature, leave it off to simplify Camera Control behavior.

Launch Visual Intelligence

There are two more settings at the bottom of the Camera Control settings screen. Outside of actively shooting a photo, pressing and holding the Camera Control provides access to Visual Intelligence, the Apple Intelligence feature that lets you point the camera at an object and learn more about it. It can be a quick way to ask ChatGPT about something you see or do a Google search for similar items, but if you don’t find it useful, turn it off.

Accessibility Options

This option is a shortcut to Settings > Accessibility > Camera Control, where you can adjust the pressure sensitivity and timing for the light press, light double-press, and double-click gestures. If you find the Camera Control too sensitive or not responsive enough, these options let you fine-tune it to match your preferences.

Overall, we like how the Camera Control makes it easier to take photos quickly, but from what we’ve seen, many people get confused by the many possible adjustments. If that’s you, turn them off so the Camera Control becomes a straightforward shutter button.

(Featured image by Adam Engst)

Securing your home network might seem uninteresting or unimportant—after all, who would bother to target you? The answer is that criminal hackers are interested in your router for a range of disturbing purposes, including attacks on your employer if you connect to a corporate network. It’s time to get serious about home network security, a fact underscored by recent news of hacking by the Russian military.

In April 2026, the U.S. Department of Justice announced Operation Masquerade, which disrupted a campaign by a hacking unit of Russia’s GRU that compromised thousands of home and small-office routers. The attackers exploited known vulnerabilities in TP-Link routers to hijack DNS settings and redirect victims to fake Web pages that harvested passwords, authentication tokens, emails, and other sensitive information.

The attack was opportunistic: the GRU cast a wide net, compromising routers indiscriminately, then filtered for targets of intelligence value. Your data may not be interesting to Russian intelligence, but the same vulnerabilities can be exploited by criminal hackers seeking financial data, credentials for identity theft, or devices to conscript into botnets.

Unlike corporate networks with dedicated IT staff, home routers tend to be installed once and forgotten—sometimes for a decade or more. That old router your AV installer set up with a default password has become a security liability for you, for your employer, and for the world. Here are actions you can take to fix that, in rough order of importance.

Replace Unsupported Routers

Routers can last many years, but manufacturers eventually stop releasing firmware updates. Once that happens, known vulnerabilities go unpatched, and the router becomes ripe for attack. Check your manufacturer’s end-of-life lists (easily found with a search) to see if your model is still supported. If it’s not receiving security updates, replace it regardless of how well it still works.

When shopping for a replacement, look for routers with automatic firmware updates from a well-known manufacturer with a track record of long-term security support, such as Asus, Eero, Google Nest, Netgear, or Ubiquiti. Avoid bargain-basement devices from unknown manufacturers—any initial savings aren’t worth the security risk.

Keep Firmware Updated

Router firmware updates patch security vulnerabilities, and the GRU attack exploited a known vulnerability that had an available fix. Enable automatic firmware updates if your router supports them—many modern routers do. If yours doesn’t support automatic updates, set a monthly reminder to check manually. Because new vulnerabilities are discovered regularly, keeping a router secure is an ongoing process, not a one-time task.

Change Default Passwords

Every router ships with default administrator credentials—often printed on a sticker on the device itself. These defaults are widely known and easily found online. Change the admin password immediately after setup to something strong and unique, and store it in your password manager.

Similarly, change the default Wi-Fi network name (SSID) and password. Use WPA3 for wireless traffic encryption if available; most modern routers support compatibility mode that lets older devices connect while newer ones benefit from stronger security. Never use WEP or leave your network open.

Turn Off Remote Management

Many routers offer a remote login option that allows access to the administrative interface from elsewhere on the Internet (rather than within the router’s own network). Unless you specifically need this capability, deactivate it to reduce your exposure to external attacks. This setting is different from the app-based management provided by some modern routers, which uses a secure account and an outbound connection initiated by the router to enable remote access. App-based management is safe as long as your account password is strong, unique, and protected with two-factor authentication.

Check DNS Settings

As seen in the recent attacks targeting some TP-Link routers, attackers who gain access often change DNS servers to redirect you to malicious websites without your knowledge. Verify that your router’s DNS settings are either obtained automatically from your ISP or point to a reputable service such as Cloudflare (1.1.1.1), Google (8.8.8.8), or Quad9 (9.9.9.9). Unfamiliar IP addresses in these settings are a red flag that your router may have been compromised.

Optional Security Improvements

If you make sure you are using a router that’s still receiving security updates, are installing those updates, and have changed the default admin and Wi-Fi passwords, you’ve achieved an entirely acceptable level of security. With a little more time and effort, you can increase security further:

• Segment your network: If you have Internet of Things (IoT) devices—such as cameras, smart TVs, or smart home gear—consider creating a separate network for them. If one is compromised, network separation prevents it from accessing your computers or phones. However, some devices need to be set up or controlled by an app on the same network, so you may need to keep such devices on your main network.
• Consider your ISP gateway: Many ISPs provide gateways that combine the modem and router hardware. If you use an ISP-provided router, make sure you can control the necessary security settings. If you instead prefer to use your own router, make sure to turn off its routing (switch to “bridge mode”) and Wi-Fi features to avoid creating another entry point to your network.
• Monitor your network: Periodically review which devices are connected to your network if your router’s admin interface or companion app makes that possible. Unfamiliar devices could indicate unauthorized access (though it’s more likely you didn’t realize some device connects to Wi-Fi because they seldom identify themselves well).
• Back up your network settings: To simplify reconfiguring your router or setting up a new one, create a backup of key settings. It could be as simple as a set of screenshots.

Home network security isn’t complicated, but it does require some thought at setup and occasional attention. If you’d like help with your network or a pointer to the routers we currently recommend, get in touch.

(Featured image by iStock.com/Igor Nikushin)

We’ve warned before about scams that trick users into pasting malicious commands into Terminal. Attackers create fake CAPTCHA pages—often resembling Cloudflare’s “are you a human” tests—that instruct visitors to open Terminal, paste a command, and press Return. Because the user executes the command themselves, macOS’s security protections are bypassed. Malwarebytes recently documented a macOS infostealer called Infiniti Stealer that spreads this way, stealing Keychain passwords, browser credentials, and cryptocurrency wallets. These attacks have become common enough that Apple has added a warning in macOS 26.4 Tahoe that appears when a user pastes a potentially dangerous command from Safari into Terminal. The protection is still in its early days—in our testing, the warning dialog appeared only once, with subsequent attempts producing only a beep. Worse, if you allow the first paste, Terminal keeps allowing pastes without further warnings. It’s a step in the right direction, but don’t count on it yet. The core advice remains: never paste commands into Terminal from websites unless you trust the site and fully understand what it does. No legitimate CAPTCHA ever requires Terminal commands!

(Featured image by iStock.com/thomaguery)

Yes, we know we’re still on macOS 26. In 2025, Apple announced macOS 27 would be the last version to support Rosetta for most Intel-based apps. (Beyond that, Apple will maintain a subset of Rosetta functionality for older, unmaintained gaming titles.) This fact has become relevant because in the just-released macOS 26.4, when you launch apps that rely on Rosetta for Intel compatibility, macOS may start warning you that they won’t open in a future version of macOS. These warnings are just reminders—nothing will change until you upgrade to macOS 28, probably in late 2027 or 2028, giving you plenty of time to find replacements. To identify Intel-based apps now, open System Information from the Utilities folder in your Applications folder, select Applications in the sidebar, and click the Kind column header to sort all your Intel apps together. iMazing’s free Silicon app does the same thing with a nicer interface.

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/Kurgenc)

Apple Music subscribers running iOS 26.4 can use the new Playlist Playground feature to create AI-generated playlists tailored to any mood, genre, activity, or era. To try it on your iPhone, open the Music app, tap the Library tab, tap the + button, then tap Create New Playlist. Instead of manually adding songs, tap the search field and enter a natural language description like “songs from a high school dance in the early 1980s” or “positive workout music from after 2010.” Playlist Playground will generate a playlist of songs based on your prompt. You can refine it by giving additional prompts, rearranging songs by dragging the hamburger buttons, or tapping Add Songs at the bottom. When you’re satisfied, tap the checkmark button at the top right to keep the playlist. Playlist Playground requires Sync Library to be enabled in Settings > Apps > Music, and the feature is currently available only in the U.S. and in English.

(Featured image by iStock.com/demaerre)

The just-released macOS 26.4 Tahoe introduced two battery-related features for MacBook users, helping them understand and control MacBook charging. A Slow Charger indicator now appears in the battery status menu and in Battery settings when your Mac is connected to a charger that isn’t delivering the minimum recommended wattage. More significantly, a new Charge Limit feature lets you manually set a ceiling for what the Mac considers a full charge—between 80% and 100%.

These additions are the latest in Apple’s ongoing effort to extend battery lifespan. Understanding how these features work—and when to override them—can reduce frustration and help keep your MacBook battery healthy.

Why Apple Limits Charging

A battery’s lifespan depends on its “chemical age,” which is affected by charging patterns and temperature history. Lithium-ion batteries degrade faster when they spend extended time at full charge or when they generate excess heat during charging. As batteries chemically age, they hold less charge and deliver reduced performance.

Apple’s solution is to reduce the time batteries spend fully charged. This is particularly important for MacBooks that spend most of their time plugged into power at a desk—a scenario that would otherwise keep the battery at 100% and generate heat, both of which shorten battery life.

Optimized Battery Charging

Apple has rolled out optimized battery charging features on the Mac. The Optimized Battery Charging algorithm uses on-device machine learning to learn your daily charging routine, aiming to ensure your Mac is fully charged by the time you actually need to disconnect it from power and leave for the day.

If your MacBook spends most of its time plugged in at your desk, macOS may keep the battery at 80% and charge to full only when it predicts you’ll need to use it away from a power source. When Optimized Battery Charging is holding your battery at 80%, you’ll see Charging On Hold in the battery status menu. (The iPhone, iPad, and Apple Watch have similar features that learn when you typically unplug and delay charging past 80% until shortly before that time.)

The New Charge Limit Feature

Charge Limit in macOS 26.4 takes a different approach. Rather than relying on machine learning to predict when you’ll need a full charge, it lets you explicitly set a maximum charge level. Your Mac will charge to within a few percentage points of your chosen limit, then stop. If the battery drops more than 5% while connected to power, charging resumes until it reaches the limit again.

To set a charge limit, go to System Settings > Battery, click the ⓘ next to Charging, and choose a limit between 80% and 100%. When the limit is active, the battery status menu shows Charged to X% Limit.

Using Charge Limit is ideal if your MacBook rarely leaves your desk. Setting an 80% limit reduces battery wear while ensuring you always have enough charge for brief periods away from power.

When You Need a Full Charge

What about when you want your MacBook’s battery to be at full strength for an unpredictable day away from power, such as for a long flight? You can override both Optimized Battery Charging and Charge Limit when you need maximum battery life:

• For immediate needs: Click the battery icon in the menu bar and choose Charge to Full Now. Your Mac will charge to 100% regardless of current settings.
• To disable limits temporarily: In System Settings > Battery, click the ⓘ next to Charging, turn off Optimized Battery Charging, and click the Turn Off Until Tomorrow button when prompted. Also set Charge Limit to 100%.
• To disable limits permanently: Follow the same steps as the bullet above, but click the Turn Off button in the warning dialog instead. Also set Charge Limit to 100%. Remember, this will likely reduce your battery’s overall lifespan.

(Similar charging limits and workarounds also apply to the iPhone and Apple Watch. On the iPhone, go to Settings > Battery > Charging and turn off Optimized Battery Charging. For the Apple Watch, look in Settings > Battery > Battery Health on the watch itself.)

About That Slow Charger Warning

The new Slow Charger indicator helps explain why your MacBook might be charging slowly or even draining while in use. If the power adapter doesn’t deliver enough wattage for your Mac model, you’ll now see a warning in the battery menu and in System Settings > Battery.

You can check your current power adapter’s wattage by reading the fine print on the charger itself, or by opening the System Information app and checking the AC Charger section in the Power screen. It’s safe to use an adapter with a higher wattage than required, but don’t go below the wattage of Apple’s included adapters.

For optimal charging, use an adapter that delivers at least the minimum wattage recommended for your Mac:

• MacBook Neo: 20 watts (no fast charging available)
• 13-inch MacBook Air: 30 or 35 watts standard, 67 watts for fast charging
• 15-inch MacBook Air: 35 watts standard, 70 watts for fast charging
• 14-inch MacBook Pro: 70 watts standard (or 96 watts for M4 Pro and M4 Max chips); 96 watts for fast charging
• 16-inch MacBook Pro: 140 watts for both standard and fast charging

Using your iPhone’s 20W charger with a MacBook Pro might technically work, but you’ll now be warned that it’s not delivering adequate power.

Finding the Right Balance

Apple’s battery optimization features represent a trade-off between immediate convenience and long-term battery health. For most users, leaving Optimized Battery Charging enabled makes sense—it learns your patterns and charges to full when needed. The new Charge Limit feature offers more explicit control for those who prefer it, particularly those whose MacBooks rarely leave the desk and can be locked at 80%.

If you frequently fight these features, you may have an unpredictable schedule that the algorithms can’t anticipate. In that case, consider turning off Optimized Battery Charging or setting a higher Charge Limit. Just remember that keeping your battery at 100% more often will shorten its lifespan—a trade-off that might be acceptable depending on how long you plan to keep your laptop.

(Featured image by iStock.com/shirophoto)